Google Map

Rockies :: Icefields :: Devon Lakes

GPS Track

Devon CampingBivouac at Devon Lakes in Siffleur Wilderness. Mount Willingdon (3373m) upper right. More info

Lower Devon Lake bivi site with view of Mt. Willingdon (upper right)

This report presents 4 days/3 nights journey into Siffleur wilderness at east ranges of Banff National Park.  Dolomite Circuit loop, documented in excellent Patton-Robinson Canadian Rockies Trail Guide, is well known backpack, but few venture south over Clearwater Pass down Clearwater Lakes valley.  Good trail, mostly used by horse outfitters, exists.  Plan was to setup 2 nights bivi at beautiful Devon Lakes east of the Pass under Mt. Willingdon, then explore this seldom visited valley with luxury of day pack.  In addition approach via Fish Lakes - Pipestone Pass was very appealing as it was an area I never visited before.  Several days of high-pressure bomber weather in August of 2017 created ideal conditions.  Even the smoke from wildfires that seem to become summer norm lifted, although hazy conditions returned on 3rd day.  Daily breakdown (click on link for detail report for that day):

• Day 1: Mosquito Creek to Fish Lakes
• Day 2: Fish Lakes to Devon Lakes
• Day 3: Devon Lakes to Lower Martin Lake (Out and Back)

Day 4 was hike out back to Icefields via Fish Lakes (Days 1 and 2 in reverse).  Initially I planned returning via (in)famous Quartzite Col, but changed my mind on the fly -- pack was lighter and I felt strong enough to hack ~34km in a day.  Main reason being that Pipestone valley is simply so beautiful and I wanted another day of this alpine glory, now facing the opposite direction.  Climb back from Fish Lakes to North Molar Pass was less tiresome than expected and overall I was glad I picked this longer return (although I am certain to try Quartzite col at some point, probably as express way back to Pipestone/Devon). 

There are many out-of-this-world objectives in this area, including easy scrambles to Devon Peak or Clearwater Mountain,  climb of Mt. Willingdon (scramble for most of the way except cliff band near the top), exploration of Martin Lakes valley / ascent of Mt. Harris, etc etc.  I am certain to return at some point -- watch this space!

Mosquito Creek to Lower Martin Lake GAIA Map Mosquito Creek to Lower Martin Lake Elevation Profile

Update Aug '22:   I returned to Devon, this time hiking in a day via Mosquito Col.  After setting base camp at exactly same spot (lead photo on this page), I spent full day exploring wonderful Devon Lakes basin, including exploratory scramble to Devon/Deluc col - important shortcut for extremely rarely visited Deluc Alpine basin.   More Details

Google Map

Trailhead Parking is at Mosquito creek hostel and campground on west side of Icefields Parkway, some 20 minutes north from Lake Louise.  (If you are leaving car overnight for several days, make sure your Park Pass is valid for entire time!).   Trailhead is at other side of the road, past small bridge.  Some trails, specially on BC Coast, require you to spend many hours below treeline before reaching the alpine;  here it is simply not so!  Only initial ~20min or so are spent hiking in the woods.   Trail then drops onto Mosquito creek and views immediately open up.  Follow the creek, passing unmarked Quartzite col turnoff by side tributary ~5km mark then reach official back-country Mo6 campground in about 1hr 20min from trailhead.  Continue following creek in southerly direction to North Molar Pass junction (see gallery) and turn left.  Section of rooty and moderately steep trail soon exits to spectacular meadow with views to die for!  In summer alpine wildflowers make this stretch pure joy.  Cross the outlet of large tarn to north side, then follow trail rising gently towards North Molar Pass, seen as "V" in obvious gap ahead.  Climb to the pass is as easy as it looks;  trail makes couple of talus zigs, then tops up on windblown alpine saddle, a highpoint for the day;  4-5hrs with heavy pack from the Icefields.   "Molarstone" mountain (unofficial name) can easily be scrambled from the pass -- leave it for return, or even better day trip.  On the other side trail drops more steeply. Views are spectacular, specially Cataract Peak in the distance -- a difficult scramble in optimal conditions.  Finally after crossing large meadow upper Fish Lake comes into view (see gallery).  Rock hop creek feeding the lake and descend to official campsite.  There were no official tent pads on my trip,  if still the case simply find nice sheltered spot.  Picnic tables are right by the lake and a joy to have dinner/breakfast.  Drinking / cooking water can be taken from the lake (boil), or walk 3-4min north and take directly from the creek in meadow.   Lower Fish lake is ~10 min down the trail & for day-hikers the turnaround point. If backpacking, leave it for tomorrow morning as trail will take you in that direction anyways.

Google Map

Spectacular alpine hiking gets whole new meaning on Day 2!  Hike is relatively short and there is absolutely no need to rush.  It is worth spending bit of time exploring Fish Lake environs that look absolutely brilliant under the morning light!  After packing up camp, follow trail downhill towards lower Fish lake for ~10-15min to Parks Ranger Cabin.  There are two ways to Pipestone Pass:  by continuing straight one can descend to Valley floor and intersect Pipestone River Trail.  This is rooty and muddy track and downright silly choice to make -- unless you are scrambler bound for Cataract Peak.  Standard and way more scenic option is "Highline" trail that branches off just behind Ranger cabin.  Trail crosses the creek (rock-hop) then ascends moderately through forest before descending to Moose Lake - one of scenic highlights of entire journey.  It would be spectacular bivi spot & I've heard of people that do exactly that, even if it is not exactly by the rules considering nearby official Parks Campground!  This is excellent second breakfast spot.  Beyond the lake trail menders gently rising towards Pipestone Pass now visible in the distance.  Hiking is spectacular with several small tarns and one beautiful meadow after another.   Approaching the pass trail rises a bit steeper towards obvious rocky gendarme splitting the valley in half.  It is possible to go on either side, but trail goes right and exits to Pipestone Pass proper;  Valley trail joins in here.   This pass is beautiful and desolate place with weathered Parks Canada table.  For hikers in opposite direction there used to be sign made by rock pebbles pointing to Highline Trail.  On the other side of the pass Siffleur valley opens up in all its splendor and it becomes clear why Dolomite Circuit is so highly rated backpack.  Trail descends then enters stunt of low growth trees;  be on alert for unmarked Clearwater Pass trail (Waypoint "Siffleur Junction" on GPS track). This trail turns south and climbs to vast meadow that constitutes Clearwater Pass.  Devon Mountain is to the right and is an easy scramble from here, while Clearwater Mountain to the left is equally easy but accessed further down main Siffleur Trail.  Mt. Willingdon, one of easiest 11000'ers comes into view directly ahead.  Small tarn is to the right, but this is not Devon lake;  continue for another 15min or so east from the pass and reach upper Devon Lake which is much larger body of water.  Usual bivi is down the trail on north side of the lake, but I crossed to the other side and found beautiful secluded spot (see gallery) -- my home for next two nights.

Google Map

Third day was exploratory out-and-back down Clearwater River Valley to Lower Martin Lake.  There are many other objectives in the area, but I tend to favor exploration of rarely traveled areas to trophy peakbagging.  That being said, Mt. Willingdon is clearly the main prize of the area, and I'd have gone for it - if it was not for the cliffband near the top I was fairly confident I'd not be able to scramble on my own.  So after breakfast I set of down the valley with light pack;  most gear stashed at Devon bivi where I'd return that evening.  Added incentive was chance to see two large back-country lakes not to many people ever visit, as well as Clearwater Ranger Cabin I heard much about.  Unfortunately smoke already started to obscure the vistas (another reason to favor valley floor hike to high elevation), but excitement of stepping down rarely traveled path made for it.  Trail crosses meadow south of upper Devon Lake, then drops several 100's of meters to Clearwater Valley.   Always well defined and very pleasant trail and I made good progress, passing camp site along the way, apparently still in use.  Further down air became a bit stuffy from advancing smoke and visibility worsened;  by the time I crossed washed out area below Mt. Harris ( 2.5 hrs from Devon bivi) it was quite hazy.  Undeterred I continued and soon enough reached Clearwater Lakes;  two beautiful bodies of water in surreal settings due to haze.  Nearby was ranger cabin, and it is in simply awesome spot (see Gallery).  I sat on the porch all by myself (and likely not another human soul in 20km radius at least) and had lunch;  I could easily spend whole summer right there, detached from all nonsense of modern 'civilization',  petty rat race, social media stupidity etc etc.   Continuing trail got a bit bushy but was still easy to follow. Finally I reached lower Martin lake outlet - my turnaround point.  Trail continues on the other side but crossing (ford) is not trivial, even with low water.  I trashed a bit upstream instead then spent another peaceful 30 minutes at shore of vast lower Martin Lake, gazing with longing towards mysterious Martin Lakes valley and Mt. Harris, almost teasing "come and get me". 

Return back to Devon bivi was faster, even if it involved climbing back;  I was not exploring behind every corner as I was going in.  Whole area is simply magical;  in particular I am teased with Martin Lakes valley riches that beg to be explored. If it only was not so far from trailhead.  I will return at some point I am certain.   Back at camp, can of beer left chilling in the lake was adequate conclusion to awesome day, already scheming plans of return to the area; stay tuned!

Hike out after packing up the camp on day 4 was, as mentioned on top of the page, days 1 and 2 in reverse and despite considerable distance highly enjoyable as well.