Devon Lakes :: Devon - Deluc Crossover

Two possible routes into Deluc Basin, as seen from lower Willingdon slopes.  Valley route in black follows Clearwater Valley trail for about an hour, then angles south and trashes upstream ~3hrs.   Shortcut alpine from lower Devon Lake in red

 

I am not composing this page as usual trip report;  rather like information source for what is to my knowledge only published beta about highline shortcut between Devon Lakes basin and rarely visited Deluc Alpine area.   Usual access to Deluc from Pipestone side is via east side saddle opposite to Mosquito Col;  this route has gained some traction in certain circles cca 2019 - 2020.   I've also seen reports of people accessing Deluc from Clearwater Trail - "Deluc Valley Route" (black line) on photo above.    During backpack in August '22 I discovered surprisingly straightforward and logical shortcut via saddle above Lower Devon Lakes Alpine Basin (also called "Uptown Lakes" by some people).  This is brief description of the route;  photo gallery below is composed in chronological order starting from bivi at Upper Devon Lake and ending at the Saddle.  I did not do full crossover but Deluc side is even easier.  I estimate it would not take more than 3 hours from upper Devon Lake to Lower Deluc Lake, while valley route takes 4-5hrs and involves non-bridged creek crossings and sometimes nasty bushwhack.

 

Head over to lower Devon alpine basin;  if coming down Clearwater trail easier spot is rock-hop at upper Devon Lake outlet.   My tent was by the lake on the other side and I simply hoped over the boulders on east side.  Cross the outlet of higher lake and head obvious grassy slopes towards the col, now visible above.  I made detour by heading first to south ridge above the lake, then dropped slightly to unexpected third tarn in rocky basin below scree gully.  No human traffic signs could be seen whatsoever.  Easiest line climbs over on climber right, then angles diagonally to flat area with what is probably permanent snowpatch about 2/3 of the way up.  I found talus very stable and generally had no issues.  After crossing the snowpatch, do not climb the spur leading directly to the col (dark/light transition) - it is very lose gravel, best suited for fast descent.  Instead angle on climber right again and easily top on the saddle;  45min to an hour from lower Devon Lake.   View is phenomenal;  Deluc alpine basin can be seen, including Deluc (Three Brothers) Peak and it's glacier.  Other side is even less steep and problematic;  after dropping to green meadows one can either bushwhack to drainage below and follow it to the lake, or possibly simply sideslope to the right.   I have no stats as I didn't turn GPS on, but from Devon bivi to the saddle I estimate 3-4km only with ~500m vertical;  1.5 hrs.

 

What is the appeal of Deluc basin?  Visiting out-of-this-world alpine area is one.  Very aesthetic loop around Devon Mountain is second.  And finally peakbagger access to rarely climbed Deluc Mountain (3182m official);  technically just talus scramble, but unavoidable glacier crossing (see gallery) elevates it to mountaineering level;  glacier has been reported to be quite tame though.

 

 
Upper Devon Panorama Circling Rocky south shore of Upper Devon Lake;  usual Willingdon Peakbagger bivi sites in green directly across
 
Lower Devon Lake Wonderful Lower Devon Lake looking north towards Willingdon / Crown
 
Willingdon Route Closer look across lower Devon Lake at usual Willingdon approach route
 
Both Lower Devon Lakes from grassy ridge ~150m vertical above - one of nicest Rockies viewpoints I've ever been to. Click to Zoom
 
Third Tarn Third lower Devon Tarn that likely never sees human visit.  Devon - Deluc Saddle behind
 
Deluc Col Base of talus slope leading to Deluc Saddle - ascend on right side then angle left towards snow patch below the col
 
Deluc Col Snowpatch Large snowpatch below the col makes things easier.  Dark line in center leading to col is lose gravel (3 steps up, 2 down) - ascend on the right side
 
Deluc Basin Wonderful view from Devon - Deluc Saddle down gentle talus slopes.   Valley route comes in up green colored drainage roughly center
 
Deluc Glacier Telephoto.  Deluc Peak (3182m) extreme upper left, unavoidable glacier crossing elevates the ascent to mountaineering level. Click to Zoom
 
Devon Side Slope Looking down Devon Side from the Saddle;  Teal Colored Lower Lakes center left,  blue Upper Lake behind

 

 

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