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Rockies :: Kananaskis :: Birdwood Traverse

GPS Track

Secluded Alpine valley between Smuts and Birdwood Passes in full Autumn larch splendour

Multiple Dates, last Sep 30, 2024

One of best through hikes in K-Country linking several high alpine passes behind Mt. Birdwood.  Best done in late September because of abundance of golden larches.  Recommended direction is Smuts Pass first,  Burstall Pass return.   Trailheads are ~5km apart and shuttle logistics require 2 cars or bicycle.  Regardless, always hike towards the car - that means parking at Bustall Pass Trailhead then transferring to Mt. Shark/Engadine Trailhead where hike begins.  There are no real difficulties, but trip requires being comfortable navigating vast landscapes sans-trail and micro-terrain route finding.  There is one brief scramble step below Snow Peak, but very easy.  Both Smuts and Burstall Pass Trails are frequently hiked and well documented  (see Smutwood Peak and Snow Peak pages for more details).    Focus of this report is off-trail traverse between the two, and this is how Gallery is organized.

Smuts Pass approach will take ~ 2.5 hrs, depending on conditions.  Sections of trail in Commonwealth Creek valley can be very muddy with plenty of roots that slow down the pace.  After climbing steep Smuts Headwall (~350m elev. gain) hike becomes extremely scenic.  Hike talus around BIrdwood lakes between east and west Smuts Pass, then leave trail at shoulder where normal Smutwood Scramble starts;  this is the start of Birdwood Traverse  (Waypoint "4 - Smutwood Junction", GPS Download Top of Page).  Objective is to traverse alpine valley on SW side of Birdwood Peak towards distant Birdwood Pass below Snow Peak (see Gallery). Without losing elevation find faint trail developing in wooded area;  it becomes better defined the further you go.  After reaching valley bottom trail disappears by the cairn.  Ascend grassy slopes dotted with larches and small bubbling creeks towards Birdwood Pass;  this part is pure joy to hike.  From Birdwood Pass continue down Talus Bench till you are about to get cliffed out on left (east) side, then easy scramble up broken ground to upper shelf below Snow Peak and descend south eventually intercepting Bustall Pass Trail by Banff National Park boundary;   ~2.5hrs from Smuts Pass.  Hike out back to Spray Road on wide and well travelled Burstall Pass Trail.  In late September sometimes cumbersome crossing of Flats below Commonwealth Peak has dried out and will not present problems.

This is highly recommended trip for seasoned outdoor explorers.  I've done it several times and am likely to repeat again.  If you can hit it right in terms of conditions as Gallery showcases, simply outstanding.

Gallery

Birdwood Lakes Beautiful Birdwood Lakes below Mt. Smuts hiking talus slope between East and West Smuts Pass.   "Smutwood" Peak upper left