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Rockies :: Kananaskis :: Smutwood Peak

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"Million dollar view" from summit of Smutwood Peak.  Striking NW ridge of Mt. Birdwood upper left, Birdwood Tarns below.  Smuts Pass far bottom left.  Sir Douglas just right of upper center in the distance, Snow peak to its right

September 13, 2016

Mt. Smutwood is unofficially named high point of long ridge just west of Smuts Pass.  It is very scenic easy ascent in beautiful Smuts Pass environs. Summit view is simply breathtaking and easily one of the best in K-country.  With 2 vehicles it is possible to extend the day and do a loop return via Birdwood/Burstall Pass.  For less energetic, even just the hike to Smuts Pass is well worth the effort.  Highly recommended!

Follow Mt. Shark access road past Mt. Engadine lodge turnoff across the bridge, then at first switchback turn left into logging road - parking area is few meters away.  Hike this logging road passing Tryst Lake turnoff in about 20 minutes, then when the road splits take right branch heading towards Commonwealth creek. Road soon turns into trail and descends to the creek. First highlight is here -- twin falls (did you bring the tripod?).  Past the falls rooty and occasionally muddy trail hikes on right side of the creek to head of long valley sandwiched between Fist/Smuts to the right and Commonwealth Peak/Pigs Tail/Mt. Birdwood to the left.  Smuts pass is the notch on the horizon and appears far away at this point.  Good trail continues on the right side of the valley and reaches base of headwall below the pass in 45 mins to an hour.  Ascent to the pass is steep and lower part of the trail is a bit eroded - caution needed on descent.  Trail splits on the bench dotted with larches halfway up;  going left across the scree is faster, but if you continue straight it is actually more beautiful - make your pick. Both routes converge just below Smuts Pass.  This is where scramblers heading for Mt. Smuts would leave the trail and ascend scree cone to the right.  It looks quite scary just looking from below, and hard to believe it is a scramble.  Most parties that ascended Mt. Smuts over the years agree it is low class 5 and really a technical climb - I strongly advise against.  There are much better ways to spend days in the mountains.

Lovely panorama unfolds at the pass, with Smutwood ascent ridge directly across.  Lower Birdwood tarn is below and it is worth losing a bit of elevation to visit it.  Hike up to upper tarn noting lovely waterfall separating the two, then up grassy slope to start of the ascent ridge.  Alternatively scree trail on the left side bypasses the tarns and is more direct; leave it for the return perhaps.  The ridge is as easy as it appears and faint trail can be found most of the way. There are couple of rock bands but all are very easy and barely call for use of hands (class 2).  False summit is usually bypassed on the left side, but you can also go directly over.  Final part of the ridge is a bit loose;  as usual, it is best to stay as close to the crest as possible, and leave scree trails for descent.  It takes about an hour from upper tarn to the summit.

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