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Rockies :: Kananaskis :: Mt. Baldy South Peak

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Panoramic View North from South Peak of Mt. Baldy.  Main Summit left center with connecting ridge in foreground

May 27, 2020

Mount Baldy is prominent peak on transition from Foothills to Front Ranges of Kananaskis Country.  Main summit towering above Barrier Lake on Kananaskis Trail (Hwy40) it is very popular year-round ascent.   South and West summits are lower and not so frequently visited.   Traverse of all 3 summits is described in Kane scrambles book, but involves very difficult downclimb below main summit.  Easier option is from the south via gentle ridge extending from Baldy Pass, accessed via official K-country trail.  It is also described in Daffern K-Country guidebook. Only obstacle is Rock Tower partway up the ridge - class 2 rock step, preferably dry.   Trip can be extended by scrambling North Peak, but this is more difficult (class 3 with some micro-terrain routefinding).

Follow official Baldy Pass trail from parking on west side of Hwy40;  about 1.5 hrs of moderate pace.  From the pass, marked by sizeable cairn, turn left (right is Midnight peak scramble route).   Scree path is well defined and it leads to Rock Tower. Path exists on the right side, but leads nowhere - you must scramble head on (see picture in gallery).  Above is simply delightful ridgewalk over several bumps and fantastic panoramic 360 views of the Foothills.  Ridge narrows but is never exposed and great fun.  Final summit block can be trashed on good scree trail on climber left, but for confident scrambler better option is to stay right on spine and scramble up (stiff class 2), then transition back to left in upper part and intercept trail.  Summit is wide and hosts large cairn.  Connecting ridge north to main summit looks very difficult and it is hard to believe it is just a scramble.  To the left is North Peak; initial drop to the saddle is not much more than simple talus trash, but rockband guarding the summit is more serious.  This extension will extend the day ~2 hours.   For return there are some adventurous options described in Nugara guidebook, but best is to follow your steps back the same way.  Late afternoon views of Midnight Peak can be stunning!

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