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Rockies :: Icefields :: Howse Pass Trail

GPS Track

Howse RiverBraided channels of Howse River along historic fur trade route to Howse Pass. Mount Sarbach (3155m) upper left, distant Mount Outram (3245m) center right. More info

High Res: 8686 x 2991, 21.4 MB
Price: 25 USD

Hiking initial portion of Howse River flats.  Mt. Sarbach upper left, Mt. Outram center right. Glacier Lake is behind grassy rib distance right

April 7, 2016

Howse Pass trail is historic route in Canadian Rockies. Following the wide alluvial fan of Howse River, it was used by fur traders to establish posts on west side of Canadian Rockies. Later Parks Canada established hiking trail and built ranger cabin just east of the pass.  As such this area is very appealing to modern day explorers. Sadly in the age of cutbacks trail has been decommissioned and area is reverting back to wilderness.  

In early season -- usually April/May timeframe -- when water level is low, it is possible to hike braided flats of Howse river and avoid horrible bushwhack along the official trail on south side.  Using this strategy it would be possible to backpack to vicinity of Ranger cabin, then day trek to the pass and explore on the other side towards Blaeberry River.  For day-hikers attractive option is hiking the first part to Glacier lake outlet junction, following by loop return on the north side and finish on official Glacier lake trail. Only problem -- transport back from Glacier trailhead back to Mistaya where the hike started.  In this case bicycle would be helpful, but if all else fails it takes about 45-50 minutes of fast walk on the highway (~6km). 

Park at Mistaya canyon tourist trailhead ~5km south of Saskatchewan River Crossing on the Icefields Parkway.  Trail descends to the canyon and crosses the chasm on good bridge. On the other side trail rises and soon emerges to the junction: Sarbach lookout left,  Howse Pass right. Parks Canada sign warns that Howse trail is not maintained, and they are not joking.  Even the initial part to Howse river has plenty of deadfall - but it is still fairly well defined and easy to follow.  At 4.8km mark there is signed junction with horse trail from the Crossing. In 2016 this sign had note "trail interrupted" next to the Crossing direction, so it might not be feasible -- I have not investigated further.  Past the junction trail exits the forest and enters "Montane area" -- delightful hiking for couple of kilometers in open benches dotted with meadows and lakes.  Trail is well defined in this section.  Eventually it reaches south side of Howse River around 7km mark and dips back in the forest.  This is the start of "decommissioned section" that should be avoided at all costs. 

Leave trail and hike across the flats hopping across snow bridges and small channels, aiming in general direction of imposing Mt. Outram.  Glacier Lake trail is on the other side.  Crossing the flats is generally easy, but there is deep channel hugging the north side; it is deep and moving quite fast even early in the season.  You might be able to spot parks sign on the other side -- it reads "2.4 km to Glacier Lake".  This is the start of old horse trail to Glacier lake, and site of supposed place to cross - but the river has shifted since.  So follow the flats towards the wide canyon draining Glacier lake; usually this is the best place to cross to the other side.  Couple of fords are usually necessary;  with little luck they will be shallow, but still icy cold.  Once on the other side simply trash up the hill and intercept old Glacier lake horse trail.

From here there are couple of options. One is to continue to Glacier lake -- about half an hour, as there is plenty of deadfall and snow lingers in shady areas quite late.  From Glacier lake you can then return via the official trail that is cleared, but boring, muddy and has some unnecessary gain elevation/loss as it travels across forested hill below Survey Peak. Better option is to return along the flats on north side.  Once past "2.4km to Glacier Lake" sign trail disintegrates, but easy trash for few minutes brings you down to river level. From there it is an easy travel in the open for about an hour to the point where you can pick up official trail around 3km mark and hike out.  Added bonus: Fabulous viewpoint from 2 red Airdondack chairs at viewing platform at top of small hill -- one of finest Rockies viewpoints.  From here follow the trail to Glacier trailhead, then drive/cycle/walk back to Mistaya.

Gallery

Glacier Lake Outflow