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Rockies :: Kootenays :: The Rockwall

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Panoramic View of The Rockwall and Tumbling Glacier from Tumbling Pass

Rockwall is classic Rockies backpack.  It is named by 30+ km massive limestone escarpment towering above some of most impressive alpine scenery Rockies have to offer, including glaciers, meadows, waterfalls and lakes.  All this doesn't come without the price;  roller-coaster nature with steep drops into intervening valleys that must be climbed on the other side put considerable burden on backpacker.  Some people day-hike parts of Rockwall - and some even trail-run the whole thing - but, besides physical endurance appeal, this is not optimal way to experience the area.  Trail is official and there are 4 (+1) maintained Parks Canada campgrounds -- Helmet Falls, Tumbling Creek, Numa Creek and Floe Lake (+ Ochre Creek).  They can be used to spread the journey and leave plenty of time for one of finest back-country experiences Rockies have to offer.  In full season trail is popular, so advance reservations via Parks Canada site are recommended.  Tip: when sites appear booked, it is worth checking regularly as many people cancel for one reason or the other -- I was able to book 3 nights, including most popular Floe Lake campground, day before the trip in late August - prime backpacking season.  If still insisting on day hikes into Rockwall area there are 2 options:  1)  Helmet - Tumbling loop, starting and ending in Paint Pots  and 2) Floe - Numa loop, with start and end some 5km apart on Hwy93 (Note that Numa creek is closed as of  summer '19 as bridge was out and Parks have no firm repair time schedule). Both options are quite strenuous and can not be recommended.

Much debate can be found online about the direction:   North - South (Floe Lake - Helmet Falls) or the other way around.  While it is probably the case of 6 1/2 in one, half-a-dozen in the other, personal preference is  Helmet Falls first.   Main reason being that all the climbs are in the shade and less steep (in particular horrendous "black hole" drop from Tumbling Pass to Numa Creek, way easier to descend).  Other reason that many quote is "leave Floe Lake for last".  One of true gems of Canadian Rockies and view of larch filled slopes and sheer escarpment towering above Floe lake from Numa Pass is unforgettable.  

Other consideration is transport.  Distance between trailheads is ~12km along Banff-Radium Highway (Hwy 93).  Without two vehicles it is strongly recommended to leave your car at exit trailhead then hitch a ride to start;  hiking towards your vehicle is much preferred than worrying about the transport on last day when you are all sweaty and tired!   This problem can usually be solved by simply hanging at trailhead for a bit then asking outbound hikers to give you a lift.

This page presents 4 days/3 nights journey in N-S direction, as per my August 2019 trip.  It consisted of following parts:

1.  Paint Pots to Helmet Falls
2.  Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek
3.  Tumbling Creek to Numa Creek to Floe Lake
4.  Floe Lake to Hwy 93

If time constraints are not an issue, for optimal experience I'd recommend 6 days/5nights trip:  2 nights at Helmet Falls (allowing for day hike with light pack to explore Goodsir Pass),  then 1 night at Tumbling Creek, Numa Creek and Floe Lake each.

Rockwall GAIA Map

Rockwall Elevation Profile

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Helmet creek provides north access to the Rockwall.  It is much gentler than south Floe Lake trail, and thus better suited for first day journey when backpack is the heaviest.  Views are limited but excitement that builds up as you are venturing into such a beautiful area makes up for it.   Helmet creek campground is quite nice with first major scenic reward - thundering Helmet Falls, one of highest in Canada, draining west Washmawapta and Sharp Glaciers above.  

Trailhead is at Paint Pots parking area on north side of Banff-Radium highway (Hwy93), some 20-25 minutes west of Trans-Canada Castle Junction in Banff National Park.  Wide trail crosses Vermilion River then meanders through bronze colored Ochre Springs ("Paint Pots") around 1km mark.  Tourists usually drop here and trail quietly slips into the forest following east side of Ochre Creek.  Mainly flat with minor ups and downs it crosses couple of bushy avalanche slopes, then reaches signed Tumbling Creek junction ~4km mark.  (If hiking only Helmet - Tumbling part, this is where you'd close the loop on return).  Ochre Creek campground is reached in another 15-20 minutes.   Past the campground trail crosses Helmet creek then switchbacks up forested slopes - majority of elevation gain is in this part.  After crossing couple more avalanche slopes trail eventually drops to Helmet creek, with glimpses of still distant Limestone Peak and Helmet Falls.  Suspension bridge is around 12km mark, and this feature definitely breaks the monotony of the journey -- it sways a lot!  It is quite safe but best crossed one person at a time!  Finally, after crossing bushy meadow and signed Goodsir Pass junction trail reaches KNP Helmet Creek Ranger Cabin.  Campground is on the other side of the creek.

Viable option is to spend 2 nights in Helmet Creek camp.  This allows for day hike into the Goodsir Pass -- expansive alpine meadow with fantastic view of The Goodsirs - iconic Rockies peaks Twin Towers.  It is also possible to trek into Lake O'Hara area this way via Ottertail River, but very few people do this (frequent Parks trail closure + transport logistics).  Regardless of the time spent in Helmet camp, trip to base of Helmet Falls is a must.  Simply follow trail past the campground to sign that informs you "400m to Helmet Falls viewpoint".  Side trail ends at boulder field at bottom of glacial moraine, but one can easily scramble up to the base of the falls.  Great view back of Helmet Creek valley you hiked in awaits there.

Google Map

Helmet Falls to Tumbling Creek segment is arguably the most scenic part of the Rockwall trail.  It has the longest stretch above treeline and scenery is simply breathtaking, including different perspective of Helmet waterfall, three alpine passes, and one of most expansive alpine meadows in Canadian Rockies.  Roller-coaster factor, although present, is not overly taxing as ups/downs are reasonable and incline gentle.  In second part of September Limestone summit is also one of best places to enjoy golden larches.  Some backpackers do a straight dash from Helmet to Numa, but this simply does not leave enough time to appreciate beautiful scenery;  it is far better to overnight at Tumbling creek which is also a very nice campground.  Side trips include base of Helmet Falls (if you haven't done it on the first day),  wondering west to Wolverine Pass and Wolverine Plateau exploration -- including one of nicest back-country log cabins I have ever seen. 

From Helmet campground trail switchbacks up forested slopes below Limestone peak to first alpine pass of the day -"Limestone Summit"- gaining ~400m vertical on the way.  Approaching the highpoint brimming with larches, make sure you glance back as you are high enough for good view of Goodsir Towers.  Trail then descends on the other side and crosses south fork of Helmet Creek, then ascends through moraine towards Rockwall pass.  Sizeable glacial tarn can be seen directly below the Rockwall, and could easily be visited (off trail) if one desires.  Second half of the ascent to Rockwall Pass is in the forest on nice and easy trail.  Then arrives the major highlight -- gorgeous expansive meadows with abundance of wildflowers in mid to late summer!  Trail meanders for several kilometers where every step is pure joy, before descending gently towards Wolverine Plateau.  Note log cabin in the distance;  trail passes above it, but it is more than worth to make a side trip for the visit.  Cabin was in use with stove, table & chairs, and bunk bed with mattresses.  I was not entirely certain whether this is Outfitter or Parks Canada cabin, and online information is divided. Regardless, it is built in such a fantastic place and waking up there in the morning must feel amazing.  Be alert though as these meadows are prime grizzly bear habitat;  on my trip huge bruin was feeding not more than 50 m above the trail.  He spotted me, snorted and kept feeding -- what a nice bear!

From Wolverine Plateau trail descends gradually towards Tumbling Creek -- some 3km or so.  Campground is reached about 45min from the cabin.  It is larger than you think initially as most of the sites are in the meadow, not forest where you first encountered Camp sign.  Tumbling Creek is good, but silty water source as it drains directly from the glacier above.

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This segment is the most strenuous of the 4.  Trail gains ~800m vertical from Numa Creek "black hole" to Numa Pass, so many people decide to split it in 2 by staying extra night at Numa Creek campground.   Other option that would fall into "4 days/3 night" itinerary is Helmet Falls - Numa Creek on Day 2 (skipping Tumbling Pass camp), but I'd definitely not recommend this as it also makes for a long day, and limits time on Rockwall Pass/Wolverine Plateau.  Also note that drop from Tumbling Pass into Numa Creek is quite steep and for large part in open avalanche slope, where sun be would make climb very tough if you were traversing Rockwall in opposite direction. 

From Tumbling campground trail descends for couple of minutes to junction with Tumbling Creek trail - alternate entry/exit back to Paint Pots.  Cross the bridge then climb to Tumbling Pass.  Switchbacks are moderately steep but not long and trail soon exits to gorgeous alpine with spectacular view of Tumbling Glacier.   Meadows are not as expansive as on Wolverine Plateau though and before long trail starts steep descent to "black hole" of Numa Creek.  It is worth having early lunch here as views are about to be cut off till much later in the day on approach to Numa Pass which looks terrifyingly far away.  Switchbacks lead down huge talus slope with couple of unbridged creek crossings, the only one entire Rockwall Trail.  By mid / late summer water is usually low enough for easy rock-hop.  Eventually trail enters forest and descends to Numa Creek trail junction, some 10 minutes before the campground.  Numa Creek is another alternate Rockwall entry/exit, but trail was closed as of summer '19 because of bridge collapse lower down and there were no firm repair schedule so you are pretty much committed to Floe Lake exit by this point.

Past the campground trail starts forested Numa Pass ascent.  Incline is initially gentle and allows for fast travel.  Within an hour trail reaches open meadows and crosses to east side of Numa Creek on a 2-log bridge.  This is good spot for a break and to fill water bottle, as real elevation gain is about to start.  Switchbacks rise steeply through mixed forest eventually exiting to subalpine larch meadows;  final ascent to Numa Pass is on talus.  Fabulous views to Floe Lake area from the Pass are unforgettable and, if not windy, this is great spot for extended break - probably much needed by this time.  Note trails beaten in scree on left (east) side -- scrambler route up Numa mountain, a straightforward ascent also feasible as day-hike from Floe Lake trailhead.  Below the Pass main trail contours meadows on the left side, then drops ~300m vertical through larch forest to Floe Lake campground. 

Google Map

Floe Creek trail provides south access to the Rockwall.  It is considerably busier than Paint Pots - Helmet creek counterpart, as lots of people simply overnight at Floe Lake and come back the same way without hiking entire Rockwall trail.  As result Floe Lake campground is the busiest and hardest to reserve spot in full summer season.   It pays off to be persistent though, as it is one of most scenic official campgrounds in the Rockies.  Often quoted as "de luxe" because of eating area on larch peninsula directly above the lake, with grand views of Rockwall cliffs on the other side!

Bear awareness is often quoted paradigm when camping in back-country.  As result Parks Canada have replaced many bear hangs with metal food lockers (all campsites on Rockwall included).   But there is another wildlife risk lots of campers don't necessarily think about -- porcupines!  Strange noise woke me up ~2am; I flashed the headlamp to see what was going on and almost jumped through the roof of my tent!  Not more than 20cm away, separated from my head only by thin mesh of tent wall - a porcupine, feasting on my Keen sandals which I keep inside tent fly in case of bathroom break in the middle of the night.   I banged and chased it away, but it came back forcing me to eventually get out and hang footwear on nearby tree.  Morning inspection revealed totally chewed up and basically useless left sandal.  So when you camp at Floe Lake beware, and make your boots/camp footwear inaccessible!

Hike itself back to Banff-Radium Highway is pleasant half-day trip.  Switchback descent down timbered Floe Headwall (steep grunt if heading up this way!) is followed by long mainly flat sidehill traverse on south slope of Numa Mountain.  Floe creek has been devastated by 2017 summer wildfires and trail is now largely in the open.   Parks Canada predict it will soon become bear haven as it is getting overgrown and bears tend to feed on such bushy avalanche slopes.  It is also waterless, so make sure you carry enough water as next reliable water source is not before bridged Floe Creek crossing near the trailhead.  Final part makes long flat traverse south to bridge over Vermilion River; Floe trailhead is 400m away past this bridge.  Your vehicle will hopefully be waiting for you here and you won't have to worry about hitching the ride back to Paint Pots where hike began on Day 1!