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Ramparts reflected through summer wildfire haze in shallow pond on Moat Lake/Tonquin Pass trail

July 13-16, 2021

Tonquin Valley is essential Jasper and one of best known Rockies backpacks.  Iconic view of Amethyst Lakes with backdrop of Ramparts cliffs have been captured in many guidebooks, maps and calendars.  Over the years area has commercialized quite a bit and there are 2 lodges that cater to wealthy clientele. Horse traffic that churn trails into mud and swarming bugs are main reason why summer, normally the busiest, is also the least preferred time for visit. As someone I know said "You have to hit Tonquin right" - and that "right" usually means crisp fall days, when bugs are gone and views are nothing short of spectacular. 

It is possible to dayhike Tonquin, and I have done so in the past in early 2000s - it was out-and-back Astoria trip.  Jasper trail runners also frequently run entire loop in a day.  But this is inferior way to experience Tonquin:  You have to backpack.  There are several strategically placed and maintained campgrounds that include food lockers and picnic tables.  Reservations in summer are hard to come by as season gets booked solid throughout summer on Parks Canada reservation site.  But if your timing is flexible it is worth to keep checking as people often cancel in the last minute.  Strong backpackers can easily reach Tonquin valley in a day, but there are also 'transit' campgrounds on both sides - Astoria River when starting from Cavell road and Portal Creek when starting from Marmot Basin road.  In the valley most popular campground is Amethyst Lakes, but in my opinion Surprise Point is by far the best -- extremely scenic, only 4 tent pads (!) and along trail that leads to Chrome and Outpost Lakes / Eremite Valley, prime back-country alpine destinations.  Other option if you have deep pocket is stay at lodges that offer full board.  Popular is also Wates-Gibson Alpine Club of Canada Hut at shore of Outpost Lake;  it is usually approached from Astoria side & used as mountaineering base camp.

My backpack in summer of 2021 was 4 days, 3 night trip:  Hike in via Portal Creek to Maccarib campground on day 1, explore Moat Lake/Maccarib meadows on day 2, move camp to Clitheroe on day 3 with afternoon dayhike to Chrome and Outpost Lakes, and finally finishing with Astoria River hike out on day 4. Unfortunately smoke from BC wildfires rolled in on day 1 and remained throughout the trip (and summer season for that matter).  So initial version of photo story is quite mediocre;  I plan autumn visit for pure photography reasons, and will update the gallery then.

Final word on often debated through hike logistics regarding shuttle between Astoria and Portal trailheads. Without 2 cars on their disposal people usually revert to either taxi or hitch-hiking.  If you are planning on calling Jasper taxi, note that Marmot road has cell reception, but Cavell trailhead does not.  However there is third option completely self-reliant, which is always personal preference: cycling.  You do not want to cycle Cavell road uphill, but Marmot road is manageable for string cyclist.  Unknown to many, there is also very good hiking trail starting from Wabasso road that emerges ~1km from Portal trailhead.  On my trip, after leaving the car at Astoria trailhead, I cycled down Cavell road, continued for 3km along Wabasso to Marmot junction, stashed the bike in the forest and easily hiked up to Portal trailhead;  entire thing took under 1.5 hrs, and saved me at least $100 CAD which seems to be ongoing rate for Jasper cabbies.  Contact me directly if you want more details about location of that Marmot hiking trail.

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