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Rockies :: Canmore and Bow Valley ::

Doorjamb - Loder

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View south from Loder Peak summit with length of Doorjamb connecting ridge in center. Bow Valley behind

Multiple Dates, Last May 26, 2022

Doorjamb and Loder Peak are first part of long ridge that traverses over Goat Peak and eventually ends at Mt. Yamnuska. It is also one of nicer loop scrambles in Front Ranges and early season scramble I've done several times. Most people seem to turn back at Doorjamb, some continue over to Loder then return the same way, but by continuing to Loder / Goat Saddle obvious drainage can be descended without much trouble all the way to Jura Creek then hike that way out. It is also not trip for beginners; Doorjamb ridge is class 3 friction rock scramble in upper part, descent to Loder/Goat saddle is not trivial either and micro-terrain route finding ability in Loder drainage is significant asset. Although feasible most of the year, I advise not doing it in winter or when icy (or when super windy). Scenery is pretty nice, including front range peaks, interesting rock, awesome fault rock and even Jura creek slot canyon. Loop could also be done in opposite direction but I strongly advise against - Loder drainage ascent would be quite a slog, while scrambling down Doorjamb Ridge is considerably more difficult than ascending.

Parking is at new wide parking lot opposite Baymag Plant on Bow Valley Parkway; significant improvement compared to the past when hikers would leave car at road shoulder.  From the parking simply head over and climb up; several trails lower down will eventually merge after initial steep part along with ever improving views.  After about an hour trail reaches base of peeling rock slabs.  Good defined bypass leads to the left, but this is the wrong way that eventually leads to much more difficult scrambling.  Easiest way is to stay at ridge crest on climber right.  Hardest part in 35-40 degree friction slab that needs to be dry to be climbed safely (see gallery);  descending this bit would be considerably more difficult.  After topping up, brief bit of flat hiking leads to Doorjamb Peak - just first bump on long ridge ahead.  Views are great here and more than enough reward for the effort.  Mount Fable is most commanding peak across Exshaw Ridge to the west.

Traversing to Loder Peak will take about ~30 minutes of generally easy ridgewalk.  After descending to low point and climbing over couple of short rock outcrops, well defined talus path leads to Loder summit that had register (or was it geochache) on my May '22 visit.  Key to loop return via Jura creek is saddle on the north side.  Descent is not straightforward;  direct line is not feasible because of steep cliffs. Instead follow talus ledge for ~100m, then look for break in the cliff - cairns help.  All difficulties behind, hike to Loder/Goat saddle, perfect spot for a break.  Ensuing ridge towards Goat Peak can be followed for awhile, but it gets more and more difficult eventually ending in 5th class territory and requiring ropes.   Turn west and descend shallow gully / drainage that leads all the way to Jura creek.  This gully is mostly straightforward, but in early season will harbor snow and probably necessitate some postholing.  At bottom where drainage splits turn left and hike out to Jura creek in another 30 minutes or so.  (If ascending this way note this fork;  continuing via other branch does not connect).   Final hike out to the parking will take ~1 hr - see Jura Creek Trip Report for more details.

Gallery

Doorjamb Scrambling View down after topping up first scramble part.  Several bypass trails are by that treed patch center right, but they lead to much more difficult terrain