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Garibaldi - Castle Towers

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Castle Towers from Top of Polemonium Ridge above Gentian Pass

Sep 30 - Oct 2, 2010

Castle Towers are the most rewarding trip in Garibaldi lake area.  Towering on east side above the lake this trio of jagged peaks is eye catching stunner from many vantage points around the park.   Only real problem is overall length;  very fit parties have done it as very long day trip but most people will require overnight.  Usual bivi spot is Gentian Pass reached on first day followed by scramble to the summit the next day and hike out.  Matt Gunn in his fine Scrambles in Southwest BC Guidebook suggests Cheakamus Lake approach, but one can also hike in from Rubble Creek, then continue over Panorama Ridge /  Gentian Peak to the Pass.  Some people ascend Gentian Glacier and although this is shortest and most direct, it falls into area of mountaineering for which proper equipment and knowledge is required.   Both approaches merge at Gentian Ridge and remainder of the ascent is identical. On my trip I decided to spread 'Assault on Castle Towers' over 3 days and camped 2 nights in Helm Campground.  This allowed me to hike most of the way with light day pack and maximize enjoyment of the area.  Considering frequent Rubble Creek car break-ins, Cheakamus start is probably safer alternative, although driving time from Vancouver is longer.

Helm campground can be reached in ~3 hours from Cheakamus Lake parking lot, following main park artery.  Views of Black Tusk are very impressive from this angle! Leave trail after the campground and hike east (left) across the meadows aiming to intercept Gentian Ridge.  This is also normal approach for Helm peak scramble (very lose pile of rubble at start of the ridge).  Ridge is simply breathtaking; only easy scrambling with views to die for.  Particularly impressive are  Panorama ridge / Gentian Peak, not usually seen from this side! (see Gallery).  From low point of the ridge drop down on steepish grassy slopes to Gentian Pass below. You lose ~350m vertical here & this part sucks on return with tired legs.  Gentian Pass is fantastic alpine saddle, and one can easily appreciate why this is suggested bivi spot if one is prepared to haul overnight gear this far.  Easy low angle ascent follows on the other side to high-point of Polemonium Ridge (~1 hr from Gentian Pass);  Castle Towers are looming above.  Just as you start thinking "this is easy" deep notch comes in;  Towers are not going to surrender so easily after all!   Notch is best scrambled by descending ridge directly below, but easiest path is difficult to spot and you might end cliffed out.  Safer bet is talus drop on skier right then angling left towards the low point when it becomes feasible.   Upon reaching the notch look back and you will spot place where to scramble directly up on return (there might be cairn as well).

Final part above the notch is ~1.5 hr plod up shifting boulders to 2675m high West Tower.  Views are simply phenomenal and on a clear day just about as good as it gets.   Particularly impressive is Sphinx Glacier to the south side with imposing Mt. Garibaldi beyond!  Towering on the other side is higher, Central tower and although connecting ridge is moderate scramble only (when dry), deep notch directly below West Tower isn't -- it is dangerous and requires rope.  Views are not better so stopping on West Tower is perfectly acceptable;   why not spend this bit of extra time enjoying the views that don't come very often and you worked very hard for.  Return is the same way, and it will depend on overall approach logistics.  On my trip I slowed down considerably and had to hike out over Gentian Ridge back to Helm in dark;  despite appearance it was easily navigated with headlamp.

Pictures in the gallery are from 2nd day,   Helm campground -- Castle Towers return.

Gallery