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Ghorepani/Poon Hill to Tadapani
Trekking Summary
| Start |
Ghorepani (2860 m) |
| End |
Tadapani (2630 m) |
| Distance |
~12 km |
| Elevation |
Max: 3210m (Poon Hill) Gain: ~900m, Loss: ~1130m |
| Trekking Time |
7 - 8 hrs |
Third day can be split into 2 parts: Early morning visit to Poon Hill followed by return to lodge for breakfast, and 'standard' trekking from Ghorepani to Tadapani. This was also first trekking day with constant ups and downs, something that will become a norm from now till end of trek. But the views! Rarely one has the opportunity for such magnificent panorama with 2 of world 10 highest peaks in front of them, reached with relatively low effort. This is why Poon Hill is so popular; at 3210m altitude is still not an issue, and trekking is simple walking on wide village trails and stone staircases. It is also worth noting second part of day to Tadapani is on iconic Annapurna Circuit Trail. For someone resolved on hiking entire Circuit --as it used to be at one point before roads were blazed -- Poon Hill would provide last (but not the least!) scenic rewards on this trek.
Early morning wake-up ~5:30 am was brutal. Still dark and probably -15 or colder in the bedroom. I slept with long johns and fleece on, deeply buried under thick covers but was still cold. Quickly boots and more layers on, and I was down for quick cup of "milk coffee"; full breakfast would wait return from Poon Hill later on. Distance to the Hill is not big, only 1km perhaps but you have to gain ~350m vertical. It was very icy and I was glad for micro-spikes; they were specially helpful on return. Halfway up you have to pay entrance fee (100 rupees, you need cash so don't forget this -- they won't let you up. Money presumably goes towards local area development). Took about 35-40minutes and I was on the hill, still in dark but easterly skies were getting bright. Amount of people surprised me; I knew it was popular, but this was already second part of December and way past prime trekking season. Still in times like this you don't think about it; it is just such a magnificent place and mind successfully blocks 'horde factor' and is able to focus on mind blowing scenery! Sun came out and it was all it I expected it to be. It was also quite windy and despite several layers chill went straight in. I still stayed for half an hour, watching changing lights and more than anything else towering Annapurna South that just evoked that sense of wonder more than anything else! Descent was fast, but it was agonizingly painful watching all the casual trekkers without proper footwear slipping and sliding.
After good breakfast down at the lodge I geared up and continued towards Tadapani, happily reunited with Annapurna Circuit trail. It climbs up to Deurali Pass (3090m) which offers last views of Dhaulagiri, then slips in the forest and descends to Deurali village. Alpine scenery was now gone for a bit, but trekking was still interesting -- deep gorge, villages, forest. Steep drop on on many stairs to bridged creek crossing below Tadapani made me understand why ABC trek is nicknamed "staircase trekking" -- but I ain't seen anything yet. Tadapani is perched on a ridge with fairly open views, but following tip I continued ~30 minutes and lost another ~200m vertical to standalone lodge which was much nicer (and warmer!). I afforded good shower and enjoyed rest of the evening by the fireplace, already aware I just spent one of days in my life I will remember for a long time. This is kind of feeling you get while trekking; there are pains, times when you wonder if it's all worth, but once days like this one come to the end you realize just how much eventual reward outweighed the cost.
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Sunrise View from Poon Hill (3210m). Mt. Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail, 6993m) upper left
