Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp
Trekking Summary
Start |
Deurali (3200 m) |
End |
Annapurna Base Camp (4130 m) |
Distance |
~8 km |
Elevation |
Max: 4130m (ABC) Gain: ~1000m, Loss: ~50m |
Trekking Time |
4 hrs |
The day to hike into Annapurna Base Camp has finally arrived! You read about it, you see pictures - but now it was finally happening. Even bad night in smelly, very cold room and bland breakfast (was really getting tired of whole 'milk coffee, set breakfast' routine) could not dampen the mood. It is a short day, except for very last day the shortest on entire trek, but I still had to climb 1000m vertical. But being properly acclimatized from Annapurna Circuit couple of weeks ago, high-altitude trekking was not a problem. I was more concerned about clouds obscuring mountain peaks - you really want bluebird on iconic destination that happens once-in-a-lifetime. But forecast was promising for next day so things were looking up in that department as well.
Day journey can be divided in two parts: Final section of Modi Khola canyon to Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC), followed by gradual ascent in low angle alpine to ABC. Snow from previous week held on this altitude and damp thaw/freeze conditions created slippery conditions in the first part, so I decided to put icers on even if they were not completely necessary. Despite low visibility for most of the day I thoroughly enjoyed the hike. Past Deurali village trail initially drops a bit, but this is just ~50m and only elevation loss of the day. Flat section across boulder field is followed by final ascent to MBC. Upon reaching first lodges, you turn sharp left and follow trail to ABC. MBC is very iconic as well, situated right below Mount Machhapucchre and views of Annapurna Range are nothing short of spectacular (although I got to see it fully only on return when clouds lifted up). As this was very short day I saw no need for rush, and took tea break in one of lodges then checked Annapurna Rescue station nearby before resuming ascent to ABC. Clouds moved in obscuring even little views I had at MBC so I just hiked slowly enjoying eerie atmosphere and finally getting into this iconic landmark. I still turned back on occasion, and good thing I did -- clouds, as unpredictable as they can be, lifted up a bit at one point, allowing very dramatic view of Fish Tail (lead image on this photo). It was a spellbound moment; you almost feel presence of mountain gods that allowed you this brief glimpse into their realm of existence.
Finally I reached ABC around 1pm. By this time it was total whiteout, so I decided to leave any exploring for tomorrow. It was also quite cold, so I went to the lodge and cuddled under some blankets after lunch, which was also a dinner. I retreated into my ultra cold room very early, wanting to be up for sunrise next morning. And sunrise it was - whole morning was one of most visually magnificent days of my life. This is the next day.
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