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Rockies :: Icefields :: Mt. Jimmy Simpson

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Jimmy Simpson PanoramaPanoramic View south from summit of Mount Jimmy Simpson (2966m). Bow Lake lower left, Iceberg Lake / Wapta Icefield right. More info

High Res: 5472 x 2340, 8.66 MB
Price: 15 USD

Panoramic view south from the summit.  Bow Lake left;  Iceberg Lake far right, Crowfoot Mountain center

July 24, 2016

Mt. Jimmy Simpson is fantastic ascent starting from Bow Lake some 30 minutes north of Lake Louise.  At almost 3000m of altitude, summit offers breathtaking scenery in the heart of the Icefields.  Entire trip is above the treeline offering views right from the start.  Initial part is shared with popular tourist trail to Bow Falls, but rest is still infrequently visited and solitude is likely.  Although not in Scrambles guidebook, route has picked up popularity due to several online reports on Internet.   Technically it is not overly challenging, but it is not a cakewalk either.  There are couple of class 2 rock steps and one very awkward talus slope to content with.  Routefinding on ascent ledges below Portal peak is now less of an issue as cairns mark the easiest way.  Loop return via Iceberg Lake is possible, but more difficult and elevates grade up a notch (D6).  Start early, and pick-up cloudless bluebird day!

Hike Bow Falls trail starting from Num-Ti-Jah lodge on north side of Bow Lake.  Good trail leads around the lake, then continues along the flats.  When water is low it is possible (and better) to walk along the flats; otherwise follow trail at edge of forest on the right side.  Past the canyon where mountaineering access to Bow Hut splits across the wedged chokestone to the left, trail descends to glacial valley below Bow Falls.  Ascent route for Mt. Jimmy Simpson is to the right. Don't head up too early though; instead hike towards the falls, then angle right on grassy draw directly below the cliffs. Good trail and cairns develop soon.  Past the brief boulder field, turn left and ascend steep talus slope then continue up following the cairns.  There are many possibilities but again cairns mark the easiest way.  Crux is brief class 2 rock step and probably the only bit you will need to use your hands the entire day. Climb directly (lose) or on the left side around bulging overhang;  it is a bit exposed but rock is more solid.  Past this obstacle cairns lead to lower ledge and onwards towards the summit that is now visible on the horizon, still fair bit away.  Pleasant hiking on meadows leads to boulder field and real crux -- steep and awkward talus slope that must be climbed to the col.  Snow helps here; otherwise easiest is to stick to the right side of seasonal waterfall.  Hiking poles help here.  Rock is lose and in a group there is real danger -- use your climbing helmets, or split into several groups.  Remainder of ascent to the col is much easier and leads quickly to the col. Don't angle right here; it is worth hiking to the col, as views on the other side reveal unexpected and very beautiful tarn that is frozen deep into the summer.  It could be visited, but lower part of the slope is glaciated according to the topo maps.

From the saddle summit is 20-30 minutes away. It is hands-in-your-pockets hiking, but there is still ~200m vertical to gain. You won't likely notice as views are simply breathtaking.  There are too many peaks to talk about, but stunning eye-catcher to the north is Caldron Lake and fantastic valley below Mistaya Peak.  From the summit you can also enjoy bird-eye view of Bow Lake over 1000 vertical meters below!  Many tourists drive the Icefields and take photos from the road, but far fewer have the privilege of seeing it from above -- keep this in mind.  Persistent cornice hugs the east side of the summit ridge, so be careful.  Return is the same way, and will take at least an hour less.

Optional loop return via Iceberg Lake:

1. First goal is to reach the 'mid-shelf'. Note fairly large lake that stays hidden most of the ascent.  The easiest way to get there is to leave Jimmy Simpson descent trail when you clear boulder field past steep talus slope and angle up.  It is surprisingly easy and you barely have to use hands at one or two spots. Hoary marmots often frequent this area in summer.
2. Walk around the lake on left (east) side then continue up small rise around the corner for about 10 minutes. At this point cliffs on the right side have eroded to mere rubble providing access to upper shelf.  Scree is shifting but not as bad as what you just endured on Jimmy Simpson.  You will likely emerge to upper shelf near another pretty tarn sitting in rocky basin to the right side
3. Continue along the upper shelf in general direction of Iceberg Lake. It will take about an hour to reach the lake from here.  Pocket glacier to the right below Mt. Thompson looks stunning.   Remainder coincides with Iceberg lake trip, so follow directions in that report.  Keep in mind that you will have to fold couple of glacial creeks, and if you have never been to Iceberg Lake before route-finding might be a problem. Way down from the lake is not obvious and nowhere as well cairned as Jimmy Simpson trail.

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