Annapurna Base Camp to Sinuwa
Trekking Summary
Start |
Annapurna Base Camp (4130 m) |
End |
Sinuwa (2360 m) |
Distance |
~18 km |
Elevation |
Max: 4130m (ABC) Gain: ~400m, Loss: ~2200m |
Trekking Time |
9 hrs |
Morning at Annapurna Sanctuary! Brutally cold night, that brought bluebird morning and conditions one can only wish for (someone up there is really looking after me). Up at crack of dawn to witness famous Sunrise. Sun comes up behind Machhapuchhre, behind Sanctuary, and first lights up Annapurna I as rest of valley is still in shade. It was simply magical watching shadow line retreating down the glaciated cliffs and giving way to bright sunlight! Soon ABC was in full sunshine and temps immediately jumped up. I went back to lodge for breakfast and check out, leaving backpack in main room, then went exploring with camera around my neck.
Next couple of hours were simply amazing. I knew time was short, and I knew I’d almost certainly never come back here in this life; I wanted to make most of it. Terminal moraine ridge above South Annapurna Icefall was logical choice. Some unsupportive snow and I was sinking, but I didn’t care. It all came together at this point, moment you plan, dream about and now it was reality. South Annapurna is “the peak”, and I could trace normal way up; if only I had mountaineering skills! Annapurna I, world 10th highest peak, is rather inconspicuous - just rounded up highpoint of long ridge. But the icefall, just the type you get in Himalayas and reminiscent of Khumbu Icefall on Everest Base Camp trek 12 years ago. I did not want to leave and played with the idea of simply staying one more night; it would take some re-arranging but I still had time. But I could already see clouds start moving in, and it was barely 10am - I knew valley would be totally socked by 1pm. So I slowly retreated after taking copious amount of photos, trying to soak it all in one last time.
Back by the lodges helicopter was taking off, taking back tourists that flew in couple of hours earlier from Pokhara. Yes, if you are rich and can fork off ~1000 USD for couple of hours, you don’t have to trek. But even if I was I’d never do it and I felt sorry for these people. You can never feel the magic, the splendour this way. But to each their own I guess.
Descent to MBC was equally spectacular and I could fully appreciate the valley I climbed in whiteout the day before. Took out my telephoto lens, 70-300L Canon lens heavy as a brick I lugged all the way, but now it paid off fully -- check out the clarity of Ganggapurna photo you could never take with ordinary lens! At MBC stopped for tea and bite, then put my rear into gear and started hiking much faster as I wanted to be back all the way to Sinuwa (lodges past Sinuwa are not good, and I wanted decent shower and meal). It was hard not to think about what I just witnessed and what will stay with me for the rest of my life!
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